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 drive shaft question......

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j_michael2004
Trail Ready
Trail Ready


Number of posts: 52
Age: 26
Location: San Antonio
Rig: 2010 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
specs.: 4" zone lift, 35" pro comp, upgraded front bumper.....more coming
Registration date: 2011-07-24

PostSubject: drive shaft question......   Tue 28 Feb 2012, 10:30 am

I know it was brought up that after I lift my jeep jk 4" I was going to need a new drive shaft. But I have been on other forums and they are saying no I don't need to. I am not wheeling often, so I wanted to see what you guys think. Thanks
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Renny
Walks The Walk
Walks The Walk


Number of posts: 141
Location: Braun Oaks, San Antonio Tx
Rig: JK 2010 Unlimited Sport
specs.: Tow package, New-to-me bumper, 35" BFG KM2's, Rigid industries fog lights, Riggid Ridge transmission and oil pan skid plate
Registration date: 2011-04-25

PostSubject: Re: drive shaft question......   Tue 28 Feb 2012, 10:41 am

Yeah you should, You can limp along with just street driving but if you were to do any sort of off road you will most likely have issues. Ducthboy101 has stories about his rig and not changing out his drive shaft.

He recommends tappon looking at about 400 w/ delivery
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Dutchboy101
Pathetic
Pathetic


Number of posts: 2180
Age: 41
Location: San Antonio, TX
Rig: Jeep
specs.: 37's and stuff
Registration date: 2008-04-03

PostSubject: Re: drive shaft question......   Tue 28 Feb 2012, 11:15 am

You can get by if you don't wheel it. Not wheeling it often has nothing to do with your DS situation right now. You changed the angle of your DS and it is a little more vulrenable now.

I went from a 3"lift on 35, to 4.5" lift. Wheeled for years with no issues on the 3" lift, the first time I went out on my 4.5" lift at Long's I hit my rear DS on a trail. It nicked it enough that I did not notice while wheeling, however driving home at 70MPH. The vibrations were killing me and the fillings I had in my teeth.

So to sum it up. No you do not need to change it right away.
I would save up for it, so you are not in for sticker shock.

If your DS is damaged, you can just remove it and drive with the other DS. Not a big deal.
I'd recommend getting in touch with Marcus with RCO (River City Offroad) I think he can get you a Tatton 1310 rear DS for just under $400.
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Renny
Walks The Walk
Walks The Walk


Number of posts: 141
Location: Braun Oaks, San Antonio Tx
Rig: JK 2010 Unlimited Sport
specs.: Tow package, New-to-me bumper, 35" BFG KM2's, Rigid industries fog lights, Riggid Ridge transmission and oil pan skid plate
Registration date: 2011-04-25

PostSubject: Re: drive shaft question......   Tue 28 Feb 2012, 11:51 am

Yeah what he said lol
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JK morgan
Walks The Walk
Walks The Walk


Number of posts: 130
Age: 31
Location: corpus christi
Rig: 07 jk
specs.: 4' super lift ,rocker runners control arms,superchips flashpaq,ORFAB rear bumper, PCS stinger,
Registration date: 2011-04-03

PostSubject: Re: drive shaft question......   Tue 28 Feb 2012, 4:43 pm

i had to change out mine at about 70,000 miles cause the bearings went out i got mine from adams drive shaft it was pretty cheap
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Hook-Em
Got No Life
Got No Life


Number of posts: 1095
Age: 45
Location: Helotes, TX
Rig: 2009 Sunburst Orange JK Sahara Unlimited
specs.: 4'' Rancho Sport Lift; 315/70R17 BFG A-T T/A KO's on 17x8.5 Alloys; Ace Rock Sliders; Poison Spyder Brawler Light Front Bumper; AEM Brute Force CAI
Registration date: 2010-09-08

PostSubject: Re: drive shaft question......   Tue 28 Feb 2012, 6:15 pm

Dutchboy has your back on this matter. If you never (rarely) wheel it, then you may never need to replace it. Then again, depending on your situation you may. I'm running a 4" lift and stock DS's and haven't had any problems. I don't wheel nearly as often as I'd like and am still golden after 18 months. If I get to where I can wheel more frequently, I suspect I'll be looking for that new DS much sooner.

Plan for the worst. Save for the new DS. Meanwhile, be sure to inspect your DS and boots every oil change. Look for any signs of grease splattered against the heat shield in front of the transfer case. That will be the most likely first indication of impending doom.
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Mr.RonGilbert
10" SUPER LOGGER


Number of posts: 2696
Age: 41
Location: Mt. Belvieu, Texas
Rig: 08 Black Unlimited
specs.: Its a beater!
Registration date: 2009-01-18

PostSubject: Re: drive shaft question......   Tue 28 Feb 2012, 8:26 pm

Dutch nailed it.

You are fine for the Mall.

If you had a 2dr.. not so much.

Save your bones and get a new set. I would go with Coast or Tatton. You can pay for a TW or a JE if you want quality with name recognition. I am running Coast shafts on a 4" w/37s

A 1310 will do what you want it to do just fine.. a 1350 may be overkill for your needs but is worth consideration.
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lonestar rubi
Got No Life
Got No Life


Number of posts: 1092
Age: 41
Location: san antionio
Rig: 2007 JK unlimited Rubicon
specs.: It's over there}
Registration date: 2010-06-21

PostSubject: Re: drive shaft question......   Tue 28 Feb 2012, 8:38 pm

TATTON!!!!!

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3in Full Traction Premium Plus, Bilstien 5100 shocks, Bilstien 5100 steering stabilizer, 35x12.50x17 Toyo open country M/T, AEV Wheels, Lightforce 170, Rugged Ridge light bar, BesTop bikini top & duster, Superchip Programmer, Superior 5.13's and axle tube seals, Poison Spyder diff covers, Xenon H.I.D. headlights & driving lights.
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j_michael2004
Trail Ready
Trail Ready


Number of posts: 52
Age: 26
Location: San Antonio
Rig: 2010 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
specs.: 4" zone lift, 35" pro comp, upgraded front bumper.....more coming
Registration date: 2011-07-24

PostSubject: Re: drive shaft question......   Wed 29 Feb 2012, 7:03 am

Thanks for all the insight guys, I will start looking at drive shafts.
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jkx0778
Pathetic
Pathetic


Number of posts: 2458
Age: 34
Location: San Antonio, TX
Rig: 2008 unlimited
specs.: in progress
Registration date: 2008-01-29

PostSubject: Re: drive shaft question......   Wed 29 Feb 2012, 1:37 pm

Love me some Ballistic Jeep/Adams Drive Shafts! I have one in the front only because I ripped the boot. Ran it that way for almost a year. but started getting drivetrain vibes and decided not to chance it (at least anymore than I already had).

I'm still running stock on the rear. I only have a 3" lift though. But it netted me 3.5" lift in the front and 3" of lift in the rear + .5" teraflex spacer, so 3.5" of total lift all the way around. I might be needing a new driveshaft in the rear, but no torn boot... got 72K miles on my 2008 unlimited and 35s for about 45K of those and 34x10.50 LTBs for about 10K miles before that.

I wheeled it pretty hard every 3 months or so up until about a year ago. Then baby #2 came along and wheeling time went to -0-.

So to answer your question... maybe scratch

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some stuff added....
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